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Old 09-04-2014, 01:00 AM   #1
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Black water valve?

My black water valve got somthing stuck in it on our last trip. the t handle doesnt quite push all the way back in. i am going to fix it this weekend and thoughtn i would ask for avice. will i be able to disassemble the valve to service it? will i need to cut the pipe to remove the valve? what is the best way to gain access to the valve. I am thinking I will need to remove the wall in the basement. while i am at it i think i will relocate the dirt devil vacuum like i saw on one of the threads here to make changing the bag easier. Any advice will be appreciated.
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Old 09-04-2014, 02:05 AM   #2
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Have you tried to fill tank with water almost full then drain it using the tank washer while emptying it.
To get to your valve you will need to take off under pan, which is a bear.
The Valve has 4 bolts that hold the gate together.
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Old 09-04-2014, 02:10 AM   #3
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Have you tried to fill tank with water almost full then drain it using the tank washer.
Agree. Backwash that thing. Fill it. It may be open but hold the hose high and fill and give it a good flush. May need a second person and work the valve during the emptying process to see it frees itself
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Old 09-04-2014, 02:11 AM   #4
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Having a similar problem on a different trailer make and assuming a similar valve is installed, I was able to "split" the valve housing by removing the 4 bolts that surround the valve. The piping allowed enough flex on the discharge side to separate the two valve halves and free the slider valve and allow the debris to be removed. On mine the housing for the sliding valve had a rubber seal around it that I had ensure was straight and properly aligned when reassembling the valve. I didn't have to cut any pipes.
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Old 09-04-2014, 03:08 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by CDMEY3600 View Post
Having a similar problem on a different trailer make and assuming a similar valve is installed, I was able to "split" the valve housing by removing the 4 bolts that surround the valve. The piping allowed enough flex on the discharge side to separate the two valve halves and free the slider valve and allow the debris to be removed. On mine the housing for the sliding valve had a rubber seal around it that I had ensure was straight and properly aligned when reassembling the valve. I didn't have to cut any pipes.
It's the 12 foot cables they use, not the valves. Cables that are too long bound and coiled to their valve are failing after just couple uses. I'm installing electric this weekend. Put them in my old Raptor, never had a valve leak again. BTW, just had dealer install all new valves and cables last week under warranty... They can't install anything but what the factory installed.
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Old 09-05-2014, 02:46 AM   #6
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All good advice thanks! I have tried the power flush technique. I fliied the tank almost completely then drained while working the valve in and out. I am not sure if it's the cable or not, but the t handle stopped about an quarter inch short of going to its closed position. When the problem occurred I felt the valve push something jam while pushing the handle in. I hope it is just a clump of the biodegradable toilet paper we use. It has been a couple weeks so I plan to flush it again before I take it apart. I might just do some other house keeping while I am in there. I haven't had the belly pan off yet and it does seem like it will be a long project. I expect it will be a mess in there like the area behind the basement wall. If found a lot of saw dust pieces of wire and construction debris.
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Old 09-05-2014, 07:00 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Coolbaldguy View Post
All good advice thanks! I have tried the power flush technique. I fliied the tank almost completely then drained while working the valve in and out. I am not sure if it's the cable or not, but the t handle stopped about an quarter inch short of going to its closed position. When the problem occurred I felt the valve push something jam while pushing the handle in. I hope it is just a clump of the biodegradable toilet paper we use. It has been a couple weeks so I plan to flush it again before I take it apart. I might just do some other house keeping while I am in there. I haven't had the belly pan off yet and it does seem like it will be a long project. I expect it will be a mess in there like the area behind the basement wall. If found a lot of saw dust pieces of wire and construction debris.
You may want to try some of the septic tank additive. It's gonna be a bit messy, but it has worked.

1, leave the cap on the end of the dump pipe.
2, add 5-10 gallons of water pour in the septic tank enzyme.
3, let sit for, the longer the better, then drive around for awhile.
4, go to sani-dump, close valve.
5, put catch bucket under outlet, take cap off, attach hose, place end in drain.
6, open valve dump black tank.

If all of that fails, pull it apart and remove obstruction

Been there, done that, it worked for me.
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Old 09-05-2014, 07:01 AM   #8
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Opps, forgot to say, you have to leave the valve open.
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:38 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splash View Post
It's the 12 foot cables they use, not the valves. Cables that are too long bound and coiled to their valve are failing after just couple uses. I'm installing electric this weekend. Put them in my old Raptor, never had a valve leak again. BTW, just had dealer install all new valves and cables last week under warranty... They can't install anything but what the factory installed.
Where do you get the electric valves and how much are they? Interested in this...
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Old 09-06-2014, 01:55 AM   #10
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Where do you get the electric valves and how much are they? Interested in this...
Amazon, $120 - $145 depending on the brand for 3" valve, little less for the gray valve. There is 2 companies both at Amazon or in Camping World stores... I had the exact same symptoms as coldbaldguy in my current rig, and my last rig... resulting from cables that were too long and bind up... once they bind and carve into the cable sheathing... game over. Electric has open/close switch and the cables are removed in favor of a 12v valve actuator. Mounts right to your existing valve stem... at the valve. I installed them in my Raptor... worked great, no leaks, no worries, and no buckets or cap popping surprises.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VAYMB4/...I1ZNE95LXW1TEL

http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-E1003...waste+valve+rv

Until i make time to remove the underbelly (which i bought 10 mil corregated panels to replace factory 3 mil so i can remove sturdy heavier insulated panels in the future for servicing) I installed these valves to solve the leaky valves due to the cable issue aforementioned.

http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T58-T...MKFWQ0B51RQZW0
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Old 09-06-2014, 02:27 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by hddecker View Post
You may want to try some of the septic tank additive. It's gonna be a bit messy, but it has worked.

1, leave the cap on the end of the dump pipe.
2, add 5-10 gallons of water pour in the septic tank enzyme.
3, let sit for, the longer the better, then drive around for awhile.
4, go to sani-dump, close valve.
5, put catch bucket under outlet, take cap off, attach hose, place end in drain.
6, open valve dump black tank.

If all of that fails, pull it apart and remove obstruction

Been there, done that, it worked for me.
That's a great idea. I have a septic tank at my house. Years ago I made a 4" PVC stand pipe that comes up out of the ground right next to the place I park the camper. When the wife and I travel we sometime use the potty in the camper instead of the NASTY truck stop toilets. I wanted to be able to dump after we got home.
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Old 09-06-2014, 03:33 AM   #12
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Had the same problem on mine I think it's a problem with the cable. The handle is on the opposite side of the trailer from the valve and I thinks it's too much for that cable. I replaced my valve with a plain old mechanical and it works great. Just saying
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Old 09-06-2014, 09:05 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splash View Post
Amazon, $120 - $145 depending on the brand for 3" valve, little less for the gray valve. There is 2 companies both at Amazon or in Camping World stores... I had the exact same symptoms as coldbaldguy in my current rig, and my last rig... resulting from cables that were too long and bind up... once they bind and carve into the cable sheathing... game over. Electric has open/close switch and the cables are removed in favor of a 12v valve actuator. Mounts right to your existing valve stem... at the valve. I installed them in my Raptor... worked great, no leaks, no worries, and no buckets or cap popping surprises.

Amazon.com: Barker 24130 3" Auto Drain: Automotive

Amazon.com: Valterra E1003VP EZ Valve 3" Electric Waste Valve System: Automotive

Until i make time to remove the underbelly (which i bought 10 mil corregated panels to replace factory 3 mil so i can remove sturdy heavier insulated panels in the future for servicing) I installed these valves to solve the leaky valves due to the cable issue aforementioned.

Amazon.com: Valterra T58 Twist-On Waste Valve: Automotive
Thanks, Splash. Looks like another winter project. Another source question for you - the 10-mil?
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