Anybody flip the axles on their Voltage?

[switz01]

Hi There: I have a stock 2012 F-350 4x4 with the Reese R-20 hitch pulling a 2013 Voltage 3200. Hitch is as low as it can be in the truck and the trailer is very front high. I measured the bottom front edge at 29" and the rear bottom edge of the trailer at 16". I stopped by the truck shop where I had the hitch installed and they said it can't go any lower and I should look at flipping the axles to make the trailer more level.

Just wondering if anyone else has an issue with the front of the trailer being much higher than the rear? And if so what you did to level out your Voltage?

Thanks

[Sinecure]

The hitch on the trailer is adjustable. Can it be raised in order to lower the front of the 5er? Just a thought.

[DesertRat]

Originally Posted by Sinecure

The hitch on the trailer is adjustable. Can it be raised in order to lower the front of the 5er? Just a thought.

That's what I did with the one on my V3605 to get the front end lower. I'm also pulling with a 2012 F-350 4x4 SRW longbed CC

[switz01]

Originally Posted by DesertRat

That's what I did with the one on my V3605 to get the front end lower. I'm also pulling with a 2012 F-350 4x4 SRW longbed CC

Desert Rat: What are your measurements front and rear? Like I said mine is 16" at back bumper and 29" at front of trailer pulling with a stock F-350. How much room to move is there on the trailer hitch? and Is this something a newbie can do themselves?

Thanks

[arlan in arizona]

Originally Posted by switz01

I stopped by the truck shop where I had the hitch installed and they said it can't go any lower and I should look at flipping the axles to make the trailer more level.

Are you talking about moving the spring shackles and putting them on top of the axles. I am confused as my 3905 has the spring on top of the axles.

My trailer is pretty darn up in the air.

[Fanboy]

Hard to tell in the photos, how much room do you have between your bed rails and trailer?

[switz01]

It appears that Voltage come from factory with the axles already flipped / under the leaf springs. This usually can be done to gain 6" of height on a trailer when the axle is over the spring. I seem to have one hole left to move the king pin which should get me about 2" lower in the front, and removing the reese slider from my hitch will drop it another 2". I hope that will just about lower the front of the trailer enough to make it level.

[switz01]

Originally Posted by Fanboy

Hard to tell in the photos, how much room do you have between your bed rails and trailer?

I think I have quite a bit of room, but to be honest didn't measure space between rails and top of trailer. I do know that you need about 6" for safety so as not to bend box rails .

[Brandt51]

Axles are already flipped from the factory (at least mine were). I was in the same boat as you. I installed a Correct Track II kit to get about two more inches of height. Next step will be 85 series tires.

[switz01]

Originally Posted by Brandt51

Axles are already flipped from the factory (at least mine were). I was in the same boat as you. I installed a Correct Track II kit to get about two more inches of height. Next step will be 85 series tires.

Same here, axles already flipped. Had shop adjust the trailer pin/ neck as appeared another set of holes to adjust the trailer neck. But now there is no room between fiberglass nose cap and trailair hitch. So that didn't work. I just do not get how front of trailer can be 13 inches higher than rear of trailer with everything set to lowest settings? Someone said may need to get frame lifted 4" to level out back end, but that is a $2000.00 touch to get done. What type 5th wheel hitch are you using? Do they come in different heights? My reese R20 with slider seems pretty high almost to bed rails , maybe I can drop the front end of trailer by simply going with a different style fifth wheel hitch? thanks for the help

[Brandt51]

I have a B&W Companion for the factory fifth wheel prep option. Lowest setting.

[Fanboy]

Originally Posted by switz01

I think I have quite a bit of room, but to be honest didn't measure space between rails and top of trailer. I do know that you need about 6" for safety so as not to bend box rails .

The reason I asked was do you have the rail room to drop even with a different hitch to achieve the level your looking for

[switz01]

Originally Posted by Fanboy

The reason I asked was do you have the rail room to drop even with a different hitch to achieve the level your looking for

i went out and measured bottom of trailer to top of rails and have about 12 inches. So if I can gain 3-4 in the box of the truck with a different hitch set up maybe that would fix the problem?

[CoffeeCup]

This is now my area of research. I am looking to purchase a 2015 V3605 or a Voltage 3200 to be pulled by my 2013 stock F350 Lariat; Crew; 4x4; SRW. No factory 5th wheel prep so, options are open. Prefer to get 16k superglide with super rails, but afraid I'll be nose high on the 5th wheel. I plan to have the trailair pin box either way I go on the camper. I would like to know actual hitch plate height of this set up so I can maybe measure pinbox level height at dealerships and do the math from there. If anyone has had success getting level with this setup I'd love to know before I ditch the superglide plan and look for another lower set up. Invensting in the superglide, raising the trailair, upgrading tires on trailer, and still ending up nose high will not be a happy day for me.

[DesertRat]

I have a 2012 same as yours but LB with factory 5th wheel hitch prep. I have a 20k Curt hitch. I have the stock pinbox on my V3605. I'm nose high by about 1/4 of a bubble. If I lowered my hitch than the bed clearance would be a problem. If your looking for perfect level truck & 5th wheel good luck. My tows very well, went 4300 miles with no problems

[CoffeeCup]

I know you're right DesertRat. I'm also looking into the B&W Companion. It has a good amount of adjustment; up & down/front to back. Plus, it seems like it is a really solid unit with solid install. (No slop). All of the rails and pins and posts of the superglide surely add up to a lot of movement. I think with the Voltage front cap cut outs, I can avoid the need for a slide if careful.

[Brandt51]

Originally Posted by CoffeeCup

I know you're right DesertRat. I'm also looking into the B&W Companion. It has a good amount of adjustment; up & down/front to back. Plus, it seems like it is a really solid unit with solid install. (No slop). All of the rails and pins and posts of the superglide surely add up to a lot of movement. I think with the Voltage front cap cut outs, I can avoid the need for a slide if careful.

I'd double check that before you go without a slider hitch, could be a costly mistake, but I've thought the same with the more modern 5th wheels. Curious if it's true. The Heartland advertises something about 88* turning radius...

[DesertRat]

Originally Posted by Brandt51

I'd double check that before you go without a slider hitch, could be a costly mistake, but I've thought the same with the more modern 5th wheels. Curious if it's true. The Heartland advertises something about 88* turning radius...

I have towed with a shortbed without a sliding hitch. I didn't have too much of a problem I just payed attention when backing up. Here's a picture of the rig I had back then.

[Brandt51]

Looks like a lot of room. While backing up I try not to get too sharp, but pulling forward in tight spots it gets....tight.

[ducmons]

I tow our 3200 with a short box. The issue I have is the T/H hitch rubs the plastic bedrail caps and dings them up. It's hits there before it hits the cab. Slide would be nice, but it's not needed. I also have the issue of not having a level trailer. My only option is the jack the thing up, and I'm not ready to spend the $$ on that.