3950 Black tank valve replacement - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 04-13-2017, 03:30 AM   #1
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3950 Black tank valve replacement

Hello... after 3 years, the black tank valve won't shut off completely. Going to replace it. Not doing electric valves at this time, have the OEM valve and cable assembly.

Have been reading this is "easy" to do. Remove bottom panels and basement panel to gain access. What I don't know is, How is the valve body connected to the tank? Glued on? Hoses clamped over the valve fittings? Anyone know the answer, I'd love to hear it. And if anyone has photos... that would be even more cool.

Appreciate the help.
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Old 04-13-2017, 11:21 AM   #2
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On my 3990, they were Bristol valves (not Valterra). I couldn't get the bolt holes to line up with a Valterra valve and had to go back to Bristol's. Don't know why, as they should have fit. Anyway, just held on 4 bolts to answer your question.
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Old 04-13-2017, 12:44 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VoltageGuy View Post
Hello... after 3 years, the black tank valve won't shut off completely. Going to replace it. Not doing electric valves at this time, have the OEM valve and cable assembly.

Have been reading this is "easy" to do. Remove bottom panels and basement panel to gain access. What I don't know is, How is the valve body connected to the tank? Glued on? Hoses clamped over the valve fittings? Anyone know the answer, I'd love to hear it. And if anyone has photos... that would be even more cool.

Appreciate the help.
Mine were sandwiched between the pipe and the tank using 4 stainless screws and nuts. I wish I had pics for you, but it was very easy - use a small clamp that you spread the gap open with and it makes it much easier to work in there ensuring the gasket is placed correctly.


There is a pic here under post #51 - different size valve but exact same concept - Electric dump valves
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Old 04-15-2017, 05:03 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donzinger View Post
Mine were sandwiched between the pipe and the tank using 4 stainless screws and nuts. I wish I had pics for you, but it was very easy - use a small clamp that you spread the gap open with and it makes it much easier to work in there ensuring the gasket is placed correctly.


There is a pic here under post #51 - different size valve but exact same concept - Electric dump valves
Thanks very much. This really helps a lot. I'm going to work on this Saturday morning. Looks like it should be a simple thing to do.
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Old 04-15-2017, 02:46 PM   #5
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While we're on this subject... my black tank valve handle has gotten VERY difficult to close this winter. They grey tank handle slides back & forth just fine... and the black tank handle slides out pretty easy. But I can only push it back in in stages... about ⅓ of the way at a time.

I tried shooting some motorcycle cable lube into it, but doesn't seem to help.

Wondering if this is a valve issue, or what? Any ideas?
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Old 04-15-2017, 04:12 PM   #6
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My OEM black tank cable was about 12 ft for a 4 ft run and was looped causing the tension. When I replace it I cut it to the proper length to make a straight run and that seems to have helped.


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Old 04-16-2017, 12:41 PM   #7
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I had the same problem Tom. Just had to replace the valve. Plus my cable was frayed so it was just a matter of time before it gave way anyway.
Rusty
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Old 04-18-2017, 10:05 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATCguy View Post
While we're on this subject... my black tank valve handle has gotten VERY difficult to close this winter. They grey tank handle slides back & forth just fine... and the black tank handle slides out pretty easy. But I can only push it back in in stages... about ⅓ of the way at a time.

I tried shooting some motorcycle cable lube into it, but doesn't seem to help.

Wondering if this is a valve issue, or what? Any ideas?
That is what mine did before finally seizing up completely and so I went electric. As others have said and you will see if you do the mod, the cable is way too long and juat binds itself up.
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Old 05-13-2017, 12:21 AM   #9
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I am having the same issue on the road with my 3970. The tanks have always been hard to open and close, but this morning while dumping prior to hitting the road, I noticed that water continued to drain (I usually fill the blank tank 1/3 full with water after dumping) after I closed it. I cut into the corrugated whatever that is and through the foil insulation. I will post pics later of the left over cable lengths and the tanks.

I would avoid cutting in from the top as it looks like the tanks are mounted flush with basement floor.
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Old 05-13-2017, 11:09 AM   #10
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Below is a pic of the bad valve as it connects to the tank, and the extreme excess of cable that is likely making it hard to open and close the valves. I will post more when the part gets in and I do the replacement.

Other than a mask, glasses, and gloves, is there anything else that I may need to prevent myself from being surprised when I open the black tank?
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Old 05-13-2017, 11:54 AM   #11
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I had a bucket to catch some leakage as well as some rags.
Rusty
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Old 05-13-2017, 05:38 PM   #12
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Just replaced the black tank valve on my 2014 Voltage. Found that the factory had used a sealer to connect a short nipple to the tank prior to the valve. Some of the sealant ran down into the valve keeping it from closing all the way. Tried cleaning and reassembled but it was probably too late. Also the long cable was binding as some others have stated. I replaced it with and electric Valterra. Wasn't hard just not the most pleasant job I've done. I think the Gray tank valve could be suffering from the same sealant problem.


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