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Old 11-03-2015, 03:21 PM   #1
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2011 Voltage 3950 naked underbelly photos??

I want to terminate the fresh water feeds at the kitchen sink because I don't use the washer / dryer or the powder room. It'll be easier to winterize that way.

Anyone have photos of the routing of the water pipes under the rig?
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Old 11-03-2015, 03:45 PM   #2
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Sure, just look at your next plate of spaghetti and that'll give you an idea of the plumbing scheme.
Sorry, couldn't help myself
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Old 11-03-2015, 05:37 PM   #3
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Sure, just look at your next plate of spaghetti and that'll give you an idea of the plumbing scheme.
Sorry, couldn't help myself
and the wiring schematic too.

Each one of these things is a one off, because you don't know where they have shoved stuff to make it fit.
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Old 11-03-2015, 07:54 PM   #4
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Winterize in Florida, I think I'm missing something
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Old 11-03-2015, 08:07 PM   #5
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I've had the basement walls off so I know what spaghetti looks like:





I just figured from the galley sink to the rear would be just a white hose and a red hose.
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Old 11-03-2015, 08:22 PM   #6
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Yep that's spaghetti all right.

Can you get to the pipes that you want to bypass at the far end. If you can have someone wiggle then around, you will probably be able to find them, then confirm by wiggling your end to see if they get the same feedback. That's the only way I could trace any wires, it may work for you with the pex.
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Old 11-03-2015, 09:16 PM   #7
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Winterize in Florida, I think I'm missing something
Be there soon. The forum autofilled my current location.
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Old 11-04-2015, 12:51 AM   #8
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You might be wondering what I'm concerned about. I took this photo when I moved my right wheel chock - I wanted to make sure at least two bolts went through steel so I dropped the back corner of the underbelly "cardboard". Just in front of the first cross braces, you can see a white tub dropping down then back up. It's actually both the white and red pex between the laundry and the powder room.There's no way to get the water out of that line with a sag like that. My water system is down if those unused lines split from freezing.

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Old 11-04-2015, 01:16 AM   #9
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They'll freeze, mine do every winter although the good ole PEX hasn't split, yet. During the winter I usually have 5 gallons of fresh water inside the garage for when those lines do freeze. I wait a day or two and the lines thaw out and I'm good to go again.

This winter I'll be in the house, hopefully, so I won't have to be prepared other than winterizing the hauler.
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Old 11-04-2015, 01:53 AM   #10
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You might be wondering what I'm concerned about. I took this photo when I moved my right wheel chock - I wanted to make sure at least two bolts went through steel so I dropped the back corner of the underbelly "cardboard". Just in front of the first cross braces, you can see a white tub dropping down then back up. It's actually both the white and red pex between the laundry and the powder room.There's no way to get the water out of that line with a sag like that. My water system is down if those unused lines split from freezing.

You can get the water out if you blow the lines before you pump your anti-freeze.

I understand your reasons to deactivate the lines, I would probably do the same thing. With my luck I'd get a batch defective anti-freeze.

On another note, isn't it reassuring how well the wiring is protected from abrasions where it's riding on the cross braces.
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Old 11-04-2015, 12:36 PM   #11
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On another note, isn't it reassuring how well the wiring is protected from abrasions where it's riding on the cross braces.
I don't even like to think about that. I'm sure there are no sharp edges on the steel.
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Old 11-04-2015, 01:43 PM   #12
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I don't even like to think about that. I'm sure there are no sharp edges on the steel.
No I didn't find any sharp edges, just some welding splatter and a few Tecs screws that the wires were bouncing around and on.

While I had the bellypan down to run the hydraulic brake lines I took an old chuck of hose I had and cut chunks of and split. Once I got the wires wrapped in the hose I put a few wraps of tape around the ends to keep them in place.

I really love the 120V wires they managed to get between the tanks and the floor.
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Old 11-14-2015, 01:49 PM   #13
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Yesterday I had a look under the island sink. The hot and cold pipes go forward to behind the drawers then down through a hole in the floor. They make a 90 degree turn laterally so they're headed toward the main slide. I'm definitely not going to be able to access them from above - I'm not willing to cut a hole in the floor.

I'm now thinking the pipes go to the powder room before the end at the laundry.
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Old 11-14-2015, 03:42 PM   #14
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Yesterday I had a look under the island sink. The hot and cold pipes go forward to behind the drawers then down through a hole in the floor. They make a 90 degree turn laterally so they're headed toward the main slide. I'm definitely not going to be able to access them from above - I'm not willing to cut a hole in the floor.

I'm now thinking the pipes go to the powder room before the end at the laundry.
The easiest thing to do it that case is to cut an access panel in the bellypan fight below the lines in the powder room, either cut and plug the lines or cut the lines and install a ball valve.
Get the ones with the drain if that would make you comfortable.

To fill the access hole take the piece of bellypan that you have cut out, attach it to the a piece of coroplast that I 1" over sized. Then reinstall your access panel.

I have a set of nutserts and crimpers, so that is what I used, but holewall anchors will do the same thing.
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Old 11-14-2015, 04:23 PM   #15
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The easiest thing to do it that case is to cut an access panel in the bellypan fight below the lines in the powder room, either cut and plug the lines or cut the lines and install a ball valve.
Ultimately that's what I'm going to have to do. But I don't want to make more holes in the bellypan than necessary. Two days ago I thought the lines went from the sink to the laundry then the powder room; now it seems it's the other way around.

I'm going to ask the neighbors if anybody has an inspection camera - that way I can be sure where the pipes are before cutting BIG holes.
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Old 11-14-2015, 07:57 PM   #16
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Ultimately that's what I'm going to have to do. But I don't want to make more holes in the bellypan than necessary. Two days ago I thought the lines went from the sink to the laundry then the powder room; now it seems it's the other way around.

I'm going to ask the neighbors if anybody has an inspection camera - that way I can be sure where the pipes are before cutting BIG holes.
What angle did you take your original photo from? Can you get the belly pan down far enough to get a picture from an angle close to the subject location?

Failing getting a picture or neighbors having an inspection camera, you may be able to find an inexpensive DIY inspection camera at a discount tool store or big box.

Thanks for reminding me I keep seeing them in my local stores, but keep missing them when they are on sale. I'll have to put it on my shopping list.
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Old 11-14-2015, 10:00 PM   #17
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The shot was from the very rear of the coroplast - pulled it down at the end under the garage stairs - see below. From the photo in post #10, I can estimate pretty well where the sagging water pipes are - measure from the bolts for my wheel chock. As it happens, nobody around here has a camera so I think I'll cut a V in the belly pan where I think the pipes are so I can pull it down enough to see in without removing a piece completely.

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Old 11-14-2015, 10:31 PM   #18
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Sorry, I saw that, I just got way to much stuff in my brain and sometimes it's hard to new stuff in.
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Old 06-06-2017, 03:07 PM   #19
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I know this is an old thread but I just got around to cutting holes in the coroplast underbelly. The pipes run down the left side of the frame. I cut them there and installed new low point drains.

The BIGGER thing is that while I was in there I discovered that the cross-member right at the front spring hanger has snapped!!!!
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