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Old 12-30-2018, 11:03 PM   #1
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Thermostat ,,Dometic

Had never used the furnace till now. The thermostat is touchy. Crank it up to say 70 so it will come on, it will run till it's hot in here, then to shut it off you have to run it down to 60 or so. Any help,, adjustments or any ideas
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Old 12-30-2018, 11:24 PM   #2
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Mine runs way off, have to set it on 76 to get the interior to stabilize at 68-70. Do you have the manual for it? Try doing a reset, they call it something else though, maybe initialization?

Aaron
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Old 12-30-2018, 11:46 PM   #3
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Mine runs way off, have to set it on 76 to get the interior to stabilize at 68-70. Do you have the manual for it? Try doing a reset, they call it something else though, maybe initialization?

Aaron
Ok, thanks,, will try that
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Old 12-31-2018, 01:02 PM   #4
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Maybe it's installed in a bad location? Exterior wall? My dual thermostat is pretty accurate in both zones (one furnace; two a/c)
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Old 12-31-2018, 01:13 PM   #5
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No its interior wall
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Old 12-31-2018, 01:41 PM   #6
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Depends on the thermostat but here is mine: To initialize the thermostat
(Pressing zone & mode at the same time)

You can also run the diagnostic mode which is pressing fan, program, f/c at the same time.*

01-03 should force fan on low, med, high

04 forces compressor on
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Old 01-05-2019, 10:42 PM   #7
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Had never used the furnace till now. The thermostat is touchy. Crank it up to say 70 so it will come on, it will run till it's hot in here, then to shut it off you have to run it down to 60 or so. Any help,, adjustments or any ideas
I had the same situation. I work in the building temperature controls field so it was especially annoying for me. The problem most likely isn't the location. It's the crappy programming built into the thermostat that allows a wide swing between turning on and off.

I solved the problem by adding a separate thermostat to control the heat. I used a Honeywell TH1100DV1000 thermostat which is a basic digital battery operated unit that is compatible with the 12 Volt wiring in RV heaters.

I mounted the new thermostat adjacent to the existing heating/cooling thermostat and dropped a 2-conductor wire down the wall into the area behind my pass-through where the heater is located. I then cut the existing control wire that runs from the heater to the rooftop A/C control box near the heater and connected it to the wire leading my new thermostat.

It was a huge improvement. The temperature control is almost as good as at home. The heater cycles more often, but the cycles are shorter so you don't get the cold/hot swings anymore.

The thermostat that I used has an installer adjustment to configure the cycle rate. It defaults to '5' which was pretty good, but if you want it even tighter try the '6' setting.
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Old 01-06-2019, 12:54 AM   #8
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I had the same situation. I work in the building temperature controls field so it was especially annoying for me. The problem most likely isn't the location. It's the crappy programming built into the thermostat that allows a wide swing between turning on and off.

I solved the problem by adding a separate thermostat to control the heat. I used a Honeywell TH1100DV1000 thermostat which is a basic digital battery operated unit that is compatible with the 12 Volt wiring in RV heaters.

I mounted the new thermostat adjacent to the existing heating/cooling thermostat and dropped a 2-conductor wire down the wall into the area behind my pass-through where the heater is located. I then cut the existing control wire that runs from the heater to the rooftop A/C control box near the heater and connected it to the wire leading my new thermostat.

It was a huge improvement. The temperature control is almost as good as at home. The heater cycles more often, but the cycles are shorter so you don't get the cold/hot swings anymore.

The thermostat that I used has an installer adjustment to configure the cycle rate. It defaults to '5' which was pretty good, but if you want it even tighter try the '6' setting.
Thanks for the reply,, will consider that
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Old 01-06-2019, 12:55 AM   #9
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Had never used the furnace till now. The thermostat is touchy. Crank it up to say 70 so it will come on, it will run till it's hot in here, then to shut it off you have to run it down to 60 or so. Any help,, adjustments or any ideas
I had an issue where the heat would come on, but after it shut off the first time it would not ever come back on. It did not matter how high I turned it up. I took it to the dealer since it is under warranty. They told me they had to replace the board inside the furnace.
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Old 01-06-2019, 04:43 AM   #10
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Another thought to consider is gas furnaces for RV's have two cycles where heat is not applied. The pre-purge and post-purge cycles. What this means is the fan comes on before the furnace is lit to purge the air, then after the thermostat shuts off the furnace the fans still runs to cool the system and purge the chamber.. This purge cycle Usually runs for about 60 seconds before and 30 seconds after. The 30 seconds after tends to send more heat then the thermostat called for... heating you up. Add to that, some thermostats are set to run longer deliberately, why I don't understand but have been told it's to make up for the purge cycles(???).
In addition, the lousy programming on many thermostats means the temps can be way off as others have written about above.

Pick one excuse....grins.

I simply ran my system and learned how to adapt to the heating cycle of my furnace. There are times I will get up and shut if off (I'm up anyway for a bathroom break) and then will turn it back on on the next bathroom break!

Another thought just occurred to me, I was going to upgrade to a digital thermostat but my system is to old (2014) and would require me to buy and install a new lower part of the AC system to be compatible with the new thermostat. Not worth it to me. I can't change the midnight bathroom breaks so I'll live with the system I have. You will figure it out.
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Old 01-06-2019, 12:18 PM   #11
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Purge Cycles

I agree with all of the points above. There is a little I can add.
Gas furnaces (at home or in a TT) have a latency factor in them. Each furnace design has a different latency factor so thermostats have an adjustment to compensate. The latency adjustment turns the burner off before the thermostat set temperature is reached. This prevents room temperatures from spiking due to the latent heat in the furnace heat exchanger and ducts from continuing to heat the space after set temperature is reached. My home thermostat is set to match the furnace. My TT thermostat came with the latency setting turned off. The room spikes a high temperature after the burner shuts off. I could change the latency setting to improve comfort at the cost of using more battery power due to more frequent start and stop purge cycles.
My home furnace keeps the home warm all the time. My TT furnace is off or set very low when I am not inside. The interior of the TT is cold when the furnace first cycles on. The cold walls and furniture tend to cause the thermostat to overheat the air before shutting the burner off until everything is warmed.
A thermostat must also decide how high or low the room temperature must go before shutting off or reigniting the burner. Digital thermostats may have an adjustment for this as well. I have never had a mechanical thermostat that had an adjustment for this. Your digital thermostat may be adjustable. More frequent cycles will cost more purge amp/hours.
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Old 03-05-2019, 12:09 AM   #12
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Mines the same, way up and then back down when it kicks on, pretty common. How the heck do I start a new post?
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Old 03-05-2019, 01:00 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videoarizona View Post
Another thought to consider is gas furnaces for RV's have two cycles where heat is not applied. The pre-purge and post-purge cycles. What this means is the fan comes on before the furnace is lit to purge the air, then after the thermostat shuts off the furnace the fans still runs to cool the system and purge the chamber.. This purge cycle Usually runs for about 60 seconds before and 30 seconds after. The 30 seconds after tends to send more heat then the thermostat called for... heating you up. Add to that, some thermostats are set to run longer deliberately, why I don't understand but have been told it's to make up for the purge cycles(???).
In addition, the lousy programming on many thermostats means the temps can be way off as others have written about above.

Pick one excuse....grins.

I simply ran my system and learned how to adapt to the heating cycle of my furnace. There are times I will get up and shut if off (I'm up anyway for a bathroom break) and then will turn it back on on the next bathroom break!

Another thought just occurred to me, I was going to upgrade to a digital thermostat but my system is to old (2014) and would require me to buy and install a new lower part of the AC system to be compatible with the new thermostat. Not worth it to me. I can't change the midnight bathroom breaks so I'll live with the system I have. You will figure it out.
Good plan, hmmm I am up at the same time,, the golden years lol
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