Oven pilot goes out when desired temp is reached

[Burnhaven]

Apparently this is a common problem. We have the Atwood Wedgewood oven in our 1999 30RL. The trailer is in very good shape overall, but sat on a dealer's lot for a few years. All of the propane appliances work great, except that when the oven reaches temperature and the main burner goes out, quite often the pilot goes out.

Both propane tanks had some gas left in them when I bought the RV and topped them off. I cleaned up the pilot/thermocouple area and used canned air to blow out the pilot orifice. The pilot lights easily and burns steadily with about a 3/16th inch blue flame.

One "fix" is to prop the top of the oven open with the tip of a metal spoon which leaves a slight gap for heat to escape and might possibly be allowing the main burner to stay on, but this is really not the way to go.

The brass adjustment screw just to the left of the oven knob is full clockwise which gives the largest pilot you can get out of it.

I may have a tech come out and check our tank regulator pressure, but since everything else works fine it makes me doubt the pressure is a problem or that "old propane" has gunked up the lines.

[sundancer 87]

In the Atwood does the burner flame actually extinguish when the desired temperature is reached or does it feather down as the flame does in the refrigerator?

[Burnhaven]

Not sure. The oven door has no window and if I leave the door open I would think the burner would never go out so I could observe that. I guess I could get the main burner going with knob set at 300 degrees, then with door slightly open observe the main burner flame while I turned the temp down towards zero.

Another theory might be that the thermostat up in the top/back of the oven is having issues like mistakenly believing that the temperature has reached an unsafe level and causing the regular to shut everything off. But the problem is intermittent -- the standby pilot ( the little one ) doesn't always go out when temperature is reached, but it does more than half the time.

[sundancer 87]

So, you have a standing pilot in the oven I gather? Intermittant problems are hard to diagnose for sure.

11wc inches are needed by the gas appliances so if the refrigerator is working properly the pressure is there more than likely. If the pressure is marginal and when the refrigerator demands a higher flame this might cause the oven pilot to drop out. You could try the oven operation with the refrigerator on electric and see what happens.
Other than that perhaps the thermocouple is going bad but here again, when they go bad they go bad.
I really can't come up with a viable reason why this is happening. So many options, dirty delivery gas line to the orifice, dirt in the orifice even though you blew it out something could be stuck in it, thermocouple not close enough the the flame, thermocouple nut loose in the valve body, air intake restricted, sticky gas valve and so on.

[Burnhaven]

Refer is running on electric, haven't tried it on gas yet. I managed to test the oven just now. With main burner on I reduced the temp setting down towards pilot and first the safety ( larger flame that hits the thermocouple ) went out, then the main burner quietly feathered out -- no poof or anything like that. The small standby pilot remained on that time.

When the problem occurs, the oven door is shut and somehow the small standby pilot goes out along with everything else.

I think the next step is to decide whether to take the main tank regulator in for adjustment, or have a mobile tech come out to the RV park. If pressure is low maybe an adjustment will fix things. Next step might be to replace the oven thermostat ( not thermocouple ) on the assumption that the thermostat is sensing an "over fire / too hot " condition and shutting everything down.
Atwood wedgewood Model RW2130BG