Winterize: drain vs antifreeze? - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 10-29-2017, 01:50 PM   #1
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Winterize: drain vs antifreeze?

Hello to All, I am a first time travel trailer owner. Purchased our 2017 Aspen Trail 2710BH this last May. We have really enjoyed it so far!

But now comes the seasonal duties to which I have a couple questions since I would like to myself.

1.Where is the water pump located? ( I believe I can see it after I remove the small panel on side of tub)

2. Thoughts on winterizing. Do I really need to pump antifreeze in or can I just drain and blow compressed air thru? ( This is the method I am leaning to but want to make sure I get all water out of pump) how would I accomplished this).

Thanks in advance!
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Old 10-29-2017, 02:07 PM   #2
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I actually do a combination of both. I purchased a tankless compressor (Viair 40047 400P-RV Automatic Portable Compressor Kit) to blow out the lines (sprayport included) and also need to pour antifreeze in the drains (the traps retain water). I drain my system and hot water heater then blow out the lines. I keep the drain lines open so they do not retain any water (or condensation-goes for the freshwater tank also). I also pour some antifreeze in the grey and black tanks (stuff is cheap and I don't regret spending a few dollars more rather than have an issue). Seems to work for me and I have NO REGRETS so far (learned the hard way).
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Old 10-29-2017, 02:18 PM   #3
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Thanks franktafl,
How do I know if the water pump is drained completely?
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Old 10-29-2017, 02:55 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Rojast04 View Post
Thanks franktafl,
How do I know if the water pump is drained completely?
The water pump retains very little water and said water would be blown out during your process of clearing the water lines.
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Old 10-29-2017, 03:13 PM   #5
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Thanks franktafl,
How do I know if the water pump is drained completely?
Quote:
Originally Posted by sundancer 87 View Post
The water pump retains very little water and said water would be blown out during your process of clearing the water lines.
If you are uncomfortable with it, you could pour a gallon or two in the fresh water tank... BUT, It's a REAL PAIN to get all that stuff out of there when you start using the fresh water tank again. Sundancer (I believe) is correct. leave the faucet's open, make sure you don't forget to step on the toilet flush to get the water out of that line also. If you have an ice maker or a under sink filter, you would want to address those also. I don't think you can run the water pump when it is dry but turn it on and see if it pumps anything. That should be enough.
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Old 10-29-2017, 03:30 PM   #6
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SHURFLO® REVOLUTION™ Pump 12 VDC 3.0 GPM | RV Products

At the bottom of the text it is stated Shurflo pumps have 'run dry' capability. It has been mentioned before that the diaphragm style can run dry because the diaphragms don't require water for lubrication and cooling as does an impeller pump.

This I know for sure when one of my older type of pumps ran for a few days when the water tank drained due to a leak.
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Old 10-29-2017, 05:17 PM   #7
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I really appreciate all the input guys, definitely useful stuff!
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Old 10-31-2017, 05:18 AM   #8
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My two cents...
Clean Gray and Black Tanks. By pass and drain the Hot Water Heater. It would be a good idea to cut the battery power or throw the Hot Water heater breaker so it can not be turned on by accident while empty. Drain low level water lines and fresh water tank.

It's not necessary to add antifreeze to your fresh, black and gray tank as long as you completely emptied them. A little may end up in the black and gray tank after the process anyway.

Blowing out with air (no more than 50 psi) will get a high percentage of water out of the lines but some may remain in low areas. Not a good idea if you have a older rig with pvc pipes. Blowing air in the city water connection will not empty water out of the water pump. I would not run water pump dry. Could be a problem with priming pump in the spring.

I use antifreeze with water pump antifreeze bypass. I start opening faucets in the bathroom including the toilet and shower. Then onto the kitchen, outside kitchen and shower if you have one. This will also fill the water pump with antifreeze. I use the antifreeze hand pump connected to the city water outlet which takes care of the pipes that run from the city water. I pump till pink comes out in the kitchen sink. Two person job. Also good for black tank rinse if you have one. Add a few ounces of antifreeze to each sink, shower to fill the P Trap.

You will need water pump bypass kit if your rig did not come with one.
Antifreeze hand pump
3 Gallons Antifreeze. You may have some left over but better to have too much than not enough.
Air line connector if you decide to go that route.

Good luck
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Old 10-31-2017, 01:17 PM   #9
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I read a theory once that just blowing out the lines alone is a bad idea if you live where it gets cold for long periods. The belief is that even a small drop of water could expand enough to crack a seal, or that the lack of moisture and the cold air could degrade any gaskets in the system.

People with bigger brains than mine might prove or disprove the theory, but at less than $10 for the anti-freeze and 20 minuets of my time, its worth the added level of production up here in PA


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Old 10-31-2017, 01:58 PM   #10
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From northern New England ...I do the blow out with air ... then the antifreeze pump thru .....then blow out again ..leaves small residue of antifreeze ...but also leaves antifreeze in valves and traps ( gate dump valves also ) to protect from solid freeze
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