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Old 06-23-2019, 02:18 PM   #1
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Wheels and Lubing

So I have a 2019 263BH Coleman by Dutchmen and not 100% sure what type of lube to use for the wheels and bearing so any recommendations. I also hear folks say hook up the pump and only pump 2-3 times so as not to "blow out the back bearing"... Is this a real concern?

I thought you pump until old grease come out and some videos say to use a whole tube. Also, how do I know what kinda Axel system I have, Dexter?....anyway I send emails to Dutchmen but it takes weeks so figured I would ask you, knowledgable folks.
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Old 06-23-2019, 02:49 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PAbernathy View Post
So I have a 2019 263BH Coleman by Dutchmen and not 100% sure what type of lube to use for the wheels and bearing so any recommendations. I also hear folks say hook up the pump and only pump 2-3 times so as not to "blow out the back bearing"... Is this a real concern?

I thought you pump until old grease come out and some videos say to use a whole tube. Also, how do I know what kinda Axel system I have, Dexter?....anyway I send emails to Dutchmen but it takes weeks so figured I would ask you, knowledgable folks.

The most accurate way is to pull the hubs, clean and repack the bearings, replace seals and reinstall.
Pumping grease until the new comes out was a common practice with old zerk fittings and grease points on cars. That idea has changed over the years if one even has zerk fittings on autos.

The axle system is sort of independent on the bearings being used. The place that makes the axles and spindles usually use bearings that fit and not a proprietary bearing.
When you disassemble the hub and bearings you give yourself the availability to physically inspect all the parts.
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Old 06-23-2019, 02:52 PM   #3
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Here's what I do: pull the wheels and inspect the bearings for proper amount of grease and to ensure the rear seal hasn't leaked grease. Next remount the wheels and properly install the castle nut hand tight then back it off for the cotter pin. Wheel should be free to spin and have a very slight amount of play side-to-side. Next, leave the wheels alone for the next few years and have a great time camping.

I DO NOT use the grease fitting to fill up the wheel hub with grease as it's not necessary and it's too easy to blow grease past the inner seal and onto the brakes. Frankly, I think that is a very bad idea in the first place. The only application I can see for that method is on boat trailers that are routinely immersed in water.

If you've verified that your wheels have an adequate amount of grease and the brakes are free of grease then you're good for several years (do you repack your tow vehicles wheels every year?). My triple axle has had the bearings repacked once in five years and they don't get hot or give me any problems. This trailer has been across the US, mostly in the summer heat, without any issues. I also don't use Made in China trailer tires so there's never been a tire issue either.
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Old 06-24-2019, 12:47 PM   #4
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Well, first your trailer is brand new so the bearings should have been packed from the factory and should be fine for a while.

Next you need to verify what type of axle lube system you have. Conventional or EZ Lube.

Conventional will require you to pull the bearings and pack by hand.

If its EZ lube it will have a rubber plug on the dust cap and a zerk fitting on the end of the spindle.

Heres where I disagree with the above....the EZ lube system works quite well and there is almost no danger of blowing out your back seal if used properly.

You want to spin the hub while adding grease. You do not want the dust cap full of grease. Scoop it out with your finger as you need room for expansion when hot.

I have used ez lube spindles on my trailers for 15 years and never had a problem with bearings or seals.

Enjoy your new trailer.
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Old 06-30-2019, 03:30 PM   #5
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There have been reports of some axles coming dry from the factory, so for peace of mind, pull them all and repack them, even if there is EZ-lube. For grease I have been using Moly based bearing grease like this which is for Fords. I have tried other brands, but this one seems to have the highest Molybdenum content of any of them. Moly is a great lube, better than any synthetics, but hard to contain, it falls out of solution, and this grease seems to hang onto it the best.



Note to take, if you DON'T do like Beck said when pumping grease in, it is possible to blow the rear seals. This is especially true if the trailer has not moved for a long time as grease tends to firm up and a blockage can occur in the bearings if they are not rotated to move the grease around. It doesn't go past the lip on the spindle, it can actually push the seal out of the bore. Seen it happen a few times, so always use caution with pressurized lubing systems.
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