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Old 08-27-2017, 06:46 PM   #1
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Tow hitch adjustment

This may be a difficult question to answer, but I'll try anyways. In adjusting my tow hitch for sway control, what does too "loose" feel like, and what does too "stiff" feel like?

I have a Blue Ox SwayPro hitch and I'm trying to figure out which link on the chain to use.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Old 08-27-2017, 08:01 PM   #2
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I wish I could find someone that could help me adjust my load leveling hitch. It's frustrating!!!
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Old 08-27-2017, 08:33 PM   #3
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I wish I could find someone that could help me adjust my load leveling hitch. It's frustrating!!!
As a newbie, I'm there with you. Its not like i can go to a dealership or RV store and have them ride with me for a couple of hours to help get it right.
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Old 08-27-2017, 09:19 PM   #4
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As a newbie, I'm there with you. Its not like i can go to a dealership or RV store and have them ride with me for a couple of hours to help get it right.
Already had to change the cage nuts because I have taken them off and put them on so many times. Good thing Lowe's sells them for 84 cents each.
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Old 08-27-2017, 09:24 PM   #5
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I have a Sway Pro. I really can't adequately describe what too loose and too tight feel like. Experience will be your guide.
I usually have 9 loose links sitting above the saddle in the bracket when I'm hitched up. That means I see 2 1/2 links showing below the bracket. I use this setting for when I'm fully loaded. It makes for a tight connection but it does accelerate the wear on the chain U-bolts. I'm going to have to replace the U-bolts pretty soon.

When I'm traveling light I'll have 8 free links above the saddle and it still rides well.

I have noticed what I consider to be a bit of squirreliness in back at highway speeds but nothing I would consider to be sway even in strong winds. I just discovered that according to Blue Ox, I should disengage my truck's sway control feature since it tends to fight the Sway Pro's natural tendency to control the sway. I'll try that next trip to see if the squirreliness goes away.

Oh, by the way. Get a decent 18-24 inch 1/2 drive breaker bar with a 1 inch socket. You'll likely skin your knuckles using that sorry excuse of a wrench that Blue Ox provides.
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Old 08-28-2017, 12:29 AM   #6
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Oh, by the way. Get a decent 18-24 inch 1/2 drive breaker bar with a 1 inch socket. You'll likely skin your knuckles using that sorry excuse of a wrench that Blue Ox provides.
Thanks for the feedback. I really don't like that squirrelly feeling, but I don't know what normal is.

It's funny you mentioned the wrench, the breaker bar and socket is what my son got me for Father's Day.
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Old 08-28-2017, 02:46 PM   #7
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With this, it feels like marshmallows on the back side!
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Old 08-28-2017, 11:21 PM   #8
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With this, it feels like marshmallows on the back side!
Does your truck's rear end still tend to squat down a couple of inches with the spring bars hooked up?

If so, you may want to consider some kind of suspension enhancement such as airbags or Timbrens to get things leveled up. It may still feel like marshmallows but at least your headlights will shine at the proper angle.
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Old 08-29-2017, 12:02 AM   #9
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Does your truck's rear end still tend to squat down a couple of inches with the spring bars hooked up?

If so, you may want to consider some kind of suspension enhancement such as airbags or Timbrens to get things leveled up. It may still feel like marshmallows but at least your headlights will shine at the proper angle.
It pushes down about two inches. My hitch height for the RV at level is 22", the truck is set at 23" but it goes down to almost 20" when I put the trailer on it. The front end does not move off of it's height without the trailer when I hook the bars up. I am afraid you may be right and I may need to beef up the suspension on the rear end of the truck. I just wish I could find someone to assist.
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Old 12-13-2017, 02:44 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Occupant5143 View Post
I have a Sway Pro. I really can't adequately describe what too loose and too tight feel like. Experience will be your guide.

I usually have 9 loose links sitting above the saddle in the bracket when I'm hitched up. That means I see 2 1/2 links showing below the bracket. I use this setting for when I'm fully loaded. It makes for a tight connection but it does accelerate the wear on the chain U-bolts. I'm going to have to replace the U-bolts pretty soon.



When I'm traveling light I'll have 8 free links above the saddle and it still rides well.



I have noticed what I consider to be a bit of squirreliness in back at highway speeds but nothing I would consider to be sway even in strong winds. I just discovered that according to Blue Ox, I should disengage my truck's sway control feature since it tends to fight the Sway Pro's natural tendency to control the sway. I'll try that next trip to see if the squirreliness goes away.



Oh, by the way. Get a decent 18-24 inch 1/2 drive breaker bar with a 1 inch socket. You'll likely skin your knuckles using that sorry excuse of a wrench that Blue Ox provides.

I picked one up after the plastic grip slipped off mine. Came about an inch from the wrench slicing my jaw. 18 bar with a deep 1 12 point socket. Unbelievable how much easier the process is.


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Old 12-13-2017, 09:40 AM   #11
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This is the way I do it. With any WDH you need to start out with a level loaded trailer and measure how high off the ground the tongue is not connected to the truck, lets say 21" For a start the ball on the truck should be 23". The idea is to transfer weight from the tongue to the the front axle of the truck and to the trailer axles.

How can you do this in your driveway. You have to take alot of measurements. With trailer and truck not connected put tape on the top of the front and real wheel wells of the truck and measure to the ground. Let's say rear 40" front 36". Now load the trailer without the bars and measure again. Your probably going to find something like rear 36" and front 38". Now you want to put your bars on and use the jack on the trailer to help take some load off and tighten the chains. Lower the trailer jack and go back and measure again. You would like to get as close to the original numbers of rear 40" and front 36" Tighten the chains more to try and achieve this (within reason).

You will also need to get to the scales. Maybe a commercial scale that's closed on weekends but the scale is still working?

You need to know your trucks front , rear axle weight loaded but without the trailer. Then go back with the trailer and weigh it again. This will tell you what your tongue weight is, the weight difference on front and rear axle with trailer compared to empty.

After all this and your happy with the way the hitch is setup and your still fell spongy in the rear try some air bags....
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