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Old 12-15-2016, 05:37 PM   #21
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I think it is common for everything to be mounted "left".

That's the back yard.
You don't want hoses and cables and lines strung across the front porch.
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Old 12-15-2016, 06:05 PM   #22
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I think it is common for everything to be mounted "left".

That's the back yard.
You don't want hoses and cables and lines strung across the front porch.
True, true!
My mom's Class A has the kitchen on the right and the bathroom on the left ... but there's also 34' of length to play with!
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Old 12-15-2016, 08:02 PM   #23
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And, if I recall correctly, the waste is near the rear. I'll have to look this weekend and see which side of the axles they're on. Should make for an interesting weight shift from pre-trip to post-trip.

Now that I think about it ... everything is mounted left. Fresh water, kitchen, shower. Could this cause issues as well?
Yup everything is on the left side, tanks and all. On a single axle trailer it can be a problem, just watch when you are packing and put the heavy stuff under the dinette.

I think that the black tank may actually extend to the center line, but the gray is on the left.

Eventually you may want to get loaded up and try to get side to side weights to make sure you aren't overloading a single wheel. I had this problem with a Coleman popup back in the day. The left side tire would wear about twice as fast as the right side. Turned out the left side was actully overweight.

A race car shop will have the ability to weigh each wheel, or go to an RV rally and they may have them available. You could also make friends with your local DMV enforcement officer, they quite often have portable scales that would work.

Our Motor home has the kitchen on the right with a large slide on the left so it balances out pretty well. Tanks are on both sides.

It is going to be a bit of a challenge to get everything balanced out.

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Old 12-21-2016, 01:54 PM   #24
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Talking

So there's no turning back now!

Got it hooked, did some maneuverability in a parking lot and got it to its new home (and successfully unhooked)!

(Oh, and updated my registry as well ... I'm just a little excited!)
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Old 12-21-2016, 04:38 PM   #25
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Exciting, ain't it?
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Old 12-21-2016, 05:04 PM   #26
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Nice. Since that looks like a FWD vehicle, you really do want to weigh each axle individually to make sure you distribute weight forward to the front wheels, or turning on sand or gravel will be, "interesting". Don't ask how I know what a light axle feels like in an 18 wheeler, been there, done that, was skid mark worthy. A light front axle in a FWD will be just as "exciting".
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Old 12-21-2016, 10:33 PM   #27
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Exciting, ain't it?
Yep! I went back today to fix my original parking job ... and just sat in it for a few minutes! I did manage, though, to resist squealing like a little girl!
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Old 12-21-2016, 10:47 PM   #28
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What van is that? I wouldn't tow very far without a trans cooler.

.
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Old 12-21-2016, 11:15 PM   #29
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Nice. Since that looks like a FWD vehicle, you really do want to weigh each axle individually to make sure you distribute weight forward to the front wheels, or turning on sand or gravel will be, "interesting". Don't ask how I know what a light axle feels like in an 18 wheeler, been there, done that, was skid mark worthy. A light front axle in a FWD will be just as "exciting".
I didn't feel any lightness in the front. How would a potential problem 'feel'?

The dealer did install a very beefy WDH ... and it was very steady whilst towing. Drove about an hour up a two lane highway and couldn't even feel the semi-trucks that passed the other way (after having driven my mother's Class A I was quite concerned about being pushed around).
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Old 12-21-2016, 11:50 PM   #30
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What van is that? I wouldn't tow very far without a trans cooler.

.
It's a 2012 Kia Sedona with a listed 3500# capacity. The terrain around here is pretty level and I paid close attention to my tach while towing the trailer home.

My plan is to keep it bare bones and lightweight and to take it easy while it's in tow.

But your comment here made me look into it ... and the part is cheap enough that it doesn't make sense NOT to have it done. Thank you for your input and suggestion!
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Old 12-22-2016, 12:28 AM   #31
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I didn't feel any lightness in the front. How would a potential problem 'feel'?

The dealer did install a very beefy WDH ... and it was very steady whilst towing. Drove about an hour up a two lane highway and couldn't even feel the semi-trucks that passed the other way (after having driven my mother's Class A I was quite concerned about being pushed around).
Just having the peace of mind knowing that you have adequate weight on the nose is all that matters. You can easily determine in your driveway if the WDH is correctly setup and transferring weight with a tape measure.

Measure the unladen height at each wheel well, then hitch the trailer up as you would have it loaded while traveling and measure again. As long as laden and unladen height is pretty close to each other at the front you should be perfectly fine. IIRC about a 1/2" difference between empty and connected is about right.

On regular pavement a light front end wont be noticed, its only when you get on gravel or sand that it becomes apparent as you try to make a turn and suddenly keep going forward. <this will be the reaction. LOL For RWD vehicles its not that much of an issue or noticed too much, but FWD vehicles since they apply power and steering at the front is where it is most important to have the WDH properly configured and the trailer properly balanced.

Sounds like they got you setup well, but never hurts to verify. Trust but verify is my motto.
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Old 12-22-2016, 12:35 AM   #32
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only when you get on gravel or sand that it becomes apparent as you try to make a turn and suddenly keep going forward. <this will be the reaction. LOL
Hence the aforementioned skid marks!

There was no visible difference at the dealership, but I'll double check with a measure tomorrow. I'm itching to go practice backing up some more! I'm determined to look like a pro my first "official" time out!
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Old 12-22-2016, 12:44 AM   #33
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Hence the aforementioned skid marks!

There was no visible difference at the dealership, but I'll double check with a measure tomorrow. I'm itching to go practice backing up some more! I'm determined to look like a pro my first "official" time out!

I know the feeling.
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Old 12-22-2016, 10:38 AM   #34
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Best advice I can give... Practice makes perfect until that #$@#$%$ tree moves into your blind spot without notice!

A couple of tricks to make backing up easier; make small adjustments, put one hand on the bottom of the steering wheel, if you want the rear of the trailer to go right you move that hand to the right, want the trailer to go left, move it left.

Just for the record I learned to handle farm trailers at 12 years old and drove my first semi truck at 15. No two rigs are going to handle exactly the same so you have to be flexible and take your time. If you are uncomfortable with the way things are going there is no shame in stopping to assess the situation, then resetting and starting over.

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Old 12-22-2016, 03:41 PM   #35
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It's a 2012 Kia Sedona with a listed 3500# capacity. The terrain around here is pretty level and I paid close attention to my tach while towing the trailer home.

My plan is to keep it bare bones and lightweight and to take it easy while it's in tow.

But your comment here made me look into it ... and the part is cheap enough that it doesn't make sense NOT to have it done. Thank you for your input and suggestion!
Be safe, you are maxed out and probably over on your trailer towing capacity and max tongue weight. That's a recipe for a lot of problems down the road if you tow a lot.
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Old 12-25-2016, 10:18 PM   #36
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Be safe, you are maxed out and probably over on your trailer towing capacity and max tongue weight. That's a recipe for a lot of problems down the road if you tow a lot.
Yeah you definitely have to be right there on weight - with the tanks empty and nothing in it. Loading it down is surely going to take you over your tow vehicles max limit. When we were seriously considering this trailer we decided to buy a more capable tow vehicle before the camper as our SUV topped out at 3,500 pounds. Thankfully that afforded us the option to go with a larger camper that we fell in love with in the end.
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Old 12-28-2016, 02:08 PM   #37
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Sorry I've been MIA folks ... holidays and hockey tournaments make life a bit busy!

I've been out practicing a bit with maneuverability. Next time I definitely need to take cones and/or boxes. It's way too easy to aim for a specific spot and then decide that the next spot over is 'ok' mid turn! I'm getting pretty good at figuring out how to make the trailer go in the direction I want it to go ... now I just have to figure out where the pivot points really are so I can make it go exactly *where* I want it to go.

As for weight. The unit is just a shade over 3000# empty. I've done my calculations on what I have to add and what I have to do without to keep it close to listed limits (including contents inside the van). I am utilizing a WDH with sway control. My travels will be generally be no further than 150 miles, and those miles are pretty flat (no mountain passes for me). I also intend to be that trailer that annoys cars that are in too much of a hurry for their own good! I am considering a different tow vehicle in the future, but that will have to wait a couple of years.

I do appreciate the warnings and concern. It shows that you care, even about this forum newbie!
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Old 01-08-2017, 12:12 PM   #38
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First "mod" done!

My husband bought me a power hitch for Christmas which included installation by the dealer. I was going to try to live with the crank for a season or two before deciding whether or not to splurge.

Now, my husband had already scheduled the installation appointment when he bought it. It just happened to be yesterday when it was a high of 10 degrees here! Thank goodness for gloves as that metal was COLD. After connecting/disconnecting once with the crank then once with the power, I'm TOTALLY sold!
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Old 01-08-2017, 02:05 PM   #39
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My husband bought me a power hitch for Christmas which included installation by the dealer. I was going to try to live with the crank for a season or two before deciding whether or not to splurge.

Now, my husband had already scheduled the installation appointment when he bought it. It just happened to be yesterday when it was a high of 10 degrees here! Thank goodness for gloves as that metal was COLD. After connecting/disconnecting once with the crank then once with the power, I'm TOTALLY sold!
One of the best mods I EVER made to my 16FB

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Old 01-08-2017, 07:47 PM   #40
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Thumbs up

It is one of the few mods I plan on mine this year, that cranking can be tiresome after a while. Two other mods, one which I already have the parts for is a countertop extension next to the sink, and a draw bar on the screen door. That one bugs me that they don't put a handle on the door for closing it.

Last year the first thing I did was replaced all the incandescent bulbs with LED's, makes it much brighter inside, though wish they were a little warmer, but considering that I am using less than a 1/3rd of the power the incs used. I also found some round stick on LED lights that use AA batteries for the under storage areas. One other thing I found that came in real handy, those Commander hooks, the ones that stick on and can be pulled off. I have them all over the camper now for hanging towels and other items, especially the fly swatter!

If you don't have them yet, bubble levels are great for setting up. I have one on the very front and one on the curb side, I can almost see the front one in my mirrors, but its too small to actually see the bubble. They are very inexpensive too.
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