I'm new and got my Coleman 202RDWE... - Dutchmen Owners
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Old 10-31-2019, 05:45 PM   #1
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Red face I'm new and got my Coleman 202RDWE...

Now starting on the fun part -- winterizing.

And then this, I can't locate access to water pump and the by-pass valve for the water heater.

I think the unit is so new that there is nothing here nor in youtube.

I appreciate the help (Dutchman customer service referred to the video, yeah, I'm not kidding -- and, another where it's approximately located but not how to access with those all nailed down panels).
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Old 11-01-2019, 11:00 AM   #2
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I'm not familiar with your Coleman but on a majority of the campers out there, you will find either an access panel that is screw down or it is under your couch/dinette. So depending upon where your exterior access is for your water heater, look inside the trailer at that location for your bypass connections.


I have owned two different TT's; one TT (a Layton-310) had the water heater under the couch and my current Kodiak has the water heater behind a panel in the rear bedroom which is access by removing 4 screws.
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Old 11-01-2019, 02:17 PM   #3
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Mine's so difficult to access, that I use the an air compressor to winterize, if done properly it is very effective. You don't have to bother with bypassing the hwh.
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Old 11-01-2019, 03:55 PM   #4
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I was informed that it is under the couch but I already looked and there is no panel there as opening.

I was told the kick board can board removed. I yet got to try it and I hope it doesn't involve using nail puller bar.
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Old 11-01-2019, 04:13 PM   #5
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On my unit the water heater has a drain plug that can be removed to empty the water heater. Wish I could be more help but we don't do full winterization in Mesa, AZ. I just drain all the tanks and put a bit of anti-freeze in the P-traps and the toilet bowl. I do refresh the anti-freeze about twice a winter.

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Old 11-01-2019, 04:29 PM   #6
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Mine's so difficult to access, that I use the an air compressor to winterize, if done properly it is very effective. You don't have to bother with bypassing the hwh.
That would be my alternative. And that means another cash out for air compressor. It's not the money, it's the full garage that now hardly fits two vehicles with some close quarter maneuvering (thank gawd for the trailer training).
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Old 11-02-2019, 05:22 PM   #7
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Line flush-Coleman 2016

Our pump and line flush is under the sink. We had to remove a panel under the stove as well a panel under the sink. Piece of work. Good luck.
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Old 11-02-2019, 11:34 PM   #8
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On our coleman, our water pump is under the kitchen sink... when I open the cupboards, there is a panel blocking access, remove 3 screws and there it is. You could turn the pump on and listen for where the noise is coming from to hear it's location.
Also, depending, on if Coleman stuck with the flojet pump, our had a quick connect quad port valve so the usual winterizing kit that you "screw" into the system would not work for me, so ordered right angle quad port adapter from amazon and used a length of 1/2" hose and was able to draw antifreeze into the system easily.

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Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam View Post
That would be my alternative. And that means another cash out for air compressor. It's not the money, it's the full garage that now hardly fits two vehicles with some close quarter maneuvering (thank gawd for the trailer training).
As for the compressor, the pressure is so low, that you could probably get away with something like this which is easy to store and cheap, as I think the pressure put out wouldn't surpass 30 psi

Or in all honesty, for how much air you'd have to use to empty your lines, you may be able to use a manual bicycle tire pump, not sure how much back pressure you'd get if your lines were open.
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Old 11-04-2019, 03:49 AM   #9
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I took my first TT back to the dealer and told him I would pay him to winterize my TT if he allowed me to watch. He agreed. He had to install valves and fittings to do the anti-freeze method. That saved me a lot of trouble and made it easy for me the next time.


My second TT had four screws in a panel to access the pump valve and about 8 screws to get at the water heater bypass. I modified all those fasteners to make it easier.


I use the plumbing for short winter camping trips and so winterize often.
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Old 11-04-2019, 02:41 PM   #10
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Geez, My 274BH is a breeze compared to what you guys are doing. WH bypass is under the rear bunk, pull the mattress up and pull up a panel, there it is. Water pump is under the cabinet drawers, remove bottom drawer and there it is.


You you got me thinking, when we look at new trailers to check out the winterizing access.
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Old 11-04-2019, 02:53 PM   #11
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Geez, My 274BH is a breeze compared to what you guys are doing. WH bypass is under the rear bunk, pull the mattress up and pull up a panel, there it is. Water pump is under the cabinet drawers, remove bottom drawer and there it is.


You you got me thinking, when we look at new trailers to check out the winterizing access.
Yeah, I'm also beginning to envy you. My former RV has the pump and water heater under the beds (bunk and the queen) and I have to crawl to get into it.
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Old 11-04-2019, 02:55 PM   #12
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On our coleman, our water pump is under the kitchen sink... when I open the cupboards, there is a panel blocking access, remove 3 screws and there it is. You could turn the pump on and listen for where the noise is coming from to hear it's location.
Also, depending, on if Coleman stuck with the flojet pump, our had a quick connect quad port valve so the usual winterizing kit that you "screw" into the system would not work for me, so ordered right angle quad port adapter from amazon and used a length of 1/2" hose and was able to draw antifreeze into the system easily.



As for the compressor, the pressure is so low, that you could probably get away with something like this which is easy to store and cheap, as I think the pressure put out wouldn't surpass 30 psi

Or in all honesty, for how much air you'd have to use to empty your lines, you may be able to use a manual bicycle tire pump, not sure how much back pressure you'd get if your lines were open.
Have you actually used this and did it work? That's tire inflator! LOL

I have a more powerful hand pumps (for my kayak and another for my PCP rifle).
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Old 11-04-2019, 03:07 PM   #13
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For air blow out method you need up to 40 pounds with volume high enough to blow trapped water out of valves and other places that trap small quantities of water. Vertical pipe runs need significant volume to dislodge water. Low volumes will simply bubble through the water. Different TT's have different issues.

You may need to get trapped water out of the pump and its check valve. Don't forget the outside faucet and black water tank flush system.
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Old 11-04-2019, 04:01 PM   #14
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What I did with mine was to turn the pump on and then pull the lower drains caps off. Then went and drained the water heater. That pulled whatever water was still in the tank out, and got water flowing toward the low point drains. Then shut the pump off and switched the winterizing valve over to the suction position. Switched the WH to bypass after that.



After that all faucets, toilet and drains took 1 and 1/4 gallons of antifreeze. I also leave the drain plug off the water heater, but stick a brass scrubby in to keep critters out. Since it is the low point in the tank, water can get between the plug and threads and freeze and cause damage to the plug so that it leaks when spring comes around and has to be replaced. Went through two plugs before figuring that one out.
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Old 11-04-2019, 04:49 PM   #15
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Have you actually used this and did it work? That's tire inflator! LOL

I have a more powerful hand pumps (for my kayak and another for my PCP rifle).
I know what it is, I use an air compressor but the poster said he didn't have tons of storage space. That unit will provide constant pressure that is not at a high psi so that if he wanted he could leave it hooked up and running as he went inside the cabin and proceeded to open the lines.

That unit I showed is one of the lowest pressure but they make others that would inflate much faster and may just work for constant pressure that won't blow a line.

I honestly don't know if it'd work, I was also doubtful but there are varying pressures you can get.
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Old 11-06-2019, 10:03 PM   #16
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Mine is under the couch, close to the fridge. I had to take the panel up on that side and there it all is. The screws were so short they pulled right out.
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Old 11-07-2019, 01:23 AM   #17
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On mine it’s under the couch underneath the panel
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Old 05-19-2020, 07:38 PM   #18
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Again, thanks everyone for the info -- and more.

Yeah, I found the shut off valve for the water. It's under the sofa and, indeed, I have to remove nailed panels.

As a bonus, I discovered a huge vacant space that I was able to to convert into additional storage. Then it will now be more convenient for me next time as I was able to install sliding doors for both the storage and the water pump and the water heater beside it.

And next time, I won't pump in anti-freeze anymore. I'll just blow out the water in the lines with my PCP compressor capable of 3,000 psi. I ordered an adapter than can hold the air momentarily and then open it so in can blow out pressured air into the lines and the residual water in it.
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Old 05-20-2020, 11:09 AM   #19
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Again, thanks everyone for the info -- and more.

Yeah, I found the shut off valve for the water. It's under the sofa and, indeed, I have to remove nailed panels.

As a bonus, I discovered a huge vacant space that I was able to to convert into additional storage. Then it will now be more convenient for me next time as I was able to install sliding doors for both the storage and the water pump and the water heater beside it.

And next time, I won't pump in anti-freeze anymore. I'll just blow out the water in the lines with my PCP compressor capable of 3,000 psi. I ordered an adapter than can hold the air momentarily and then open it so in can blow out pressured air into the lines and the residual water in it.
Max pressure you should use when you blow out the lines to winterize is 40 - 70 pounds.
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Old 05-20-2020, 04:17 PM   #20
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Max pressure you should use when you blow out the lines to winterize is 40 - 70 pounds.
Thanks, my adapter can hold the pressure and release it at this air pressure.

I just wish I can remember these numbers, lol.

Or I can again ask you.
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