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Old 09-03-2018, 02:16 PM   #21
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That's a great idea for a house, unfortunately, I did not have the room to mount one that big so I chose a standard 50 amp outlet from Lowe's. My RV is 50 amp so I didn't have any need for the other outlets. But, a great idea anyway. I agree with you about having the option for upgrade. We quickly went from a 30 amp RV to a 50...
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Old 09-03-2018, 02:27 PM   #22
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Frank,
At one of the houses I added two circuit breakers and used them for outlets inside my garage just on the opposite side of the wall this box was mounted. It made for easy work installing them w/GFI breakers.
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Old 09-03-2018, 02:38 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by hbens View Post
Frank,
At one of the houses I added two circuit breakers and used them for outlets inside my garage just on the opposite side of the wall this box was mounted. It made for easy work installing them w/GFI breakers.

At my house in tampa, I have that. Unfortunately, I store the RV at the house in Georgia and it's a 100 year old ....um,... thing. Not many places to mount close to where the RV is placed so I had to mount the outlet under the eve of the porch. My house in Tampa has a 50 amp generator outlet mounted just below my load center that I recently upgraded from 150 amp to 200.
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Old 09-03-2018, 09:23 PM   #24
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Thumbs down 3 blade 30 outlet

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Originally Posted by larrypride View Post
The 30 amp female will have 3 prongs, one hot, one neutral, one ground. The voltage from hot to neutral should be around 118, the same hot to ground. The wire is rated per code for 30amps. If you go over 30amps at some point the insulation will melt and you will cause a short and the wire I’ll burn.
A standard 3 blade 30 amp outlet has two hot blades and one neutral blade. The two hot blades are each 120 volt to neutral and 230 volt to each other. These have been used for electric dryer outlets for many years. Many regions and the US now require 4 blade outlets for dryer outlets. The fourth blade is a ground.
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Old 09-03-2018, 09:26 PM   #25
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PS: The neutral blade connects to ground at the home service entrance.
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Old 09-03-2018, 09:33 PM   #26
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The 30 amp outlet in the RV service box linked in a earlier message on this thread is indeed 30 amp 120 volt outlet. It is not the outlet I have on my Kodiak Cub or had on my previous TT. It is also not the outlet I have seen on numerous State and Federal campground power posts.
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Old 09-03-2018, 10:05 PM   #27
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The neutral and ground is ONLY connected together at one point. That is at the service main at your service point not in your unit. This is important because if tied together other places if you have a loose or have a broken connection you could energize everything that is grounded like your motorhome or trailer body frame etc. Very dangerous! Electricity isn't like plumbing it can kill you.
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Old 09-10-2018, 11:24 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by persistent View Post
A standard 3 blade 30 amp outlet has two hot blades and one neutral blade. The two hot blades are each 120 volt to neutral and 230 volt to each other. These have been used for electric dryer outlets for many years. Many regions and the US now require 4 blade outlets for dryer outlets. The fourth blade is a ground.
WRONG! The three blade flat, as you describe, is the old style dryer outlet, wired just exactly as you said. Two hots, one neutral, no ground. It's a 10-30R, and if you notice, the ground is not a prong but an L.
THIS IS THE REASON PEOPLE GET CONFUSED ABOUT 30 AMP TRAILER WIRING! The TT-30 three flat trailer plug is One Hot, One Neutral, and One Ground. Just like we've been telling you, it's a single phase, 120 VAC circuit, just like your home outlets, but at 30 amps. And, for the record, the dogbone adapter DOES ignore one of the two hots in a 50 amp circuit, and provides one 50 amp leg, in a 120 volt configuration, with neutral and ground, to the TT-30 outlet.
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Old 09-11-2018, 12:16 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by MartyG View Post
WRONG! The three blade flat, as you describe, is the old style dryer outlet, wired just exactly as you said. Two hots, one neutral, no ground. It's a 10-30R, and if you notice, the ground is not a prong but an L.
THIS IS THE REASON PEOPLE GET CONFUSED ABOUT 30 AMP TRAILER WIRING! The TT-30 three flat trailer plug is One Hot, One Neutral, and One Ground. Just like we've been telling you, it's a single phase, 120 VAC circuit, just like your home outlets, but at 30 amps. And, for the record, the dogbone adapter DOES ignore one of the two hots in a 50 amp circuit, and provides one 50 amp leg, in a 120 volt configuration, with neutral and ground, to the TT-30 outlet.
It's amazing how many have no understanding of RV electrical, even some electricians from what I see here. You tell them and tell them and they still don't listen. All you can do is advise, but, they will go ahead and do it anyway, then shake their head and say "what happened"
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Old 09-11-2018, 03:35 AM   #30
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MartyG is totally correct. I’ve been a master electrician for 40 years he is correct. Danger don’t go to Home Depot and make adapters that you think will work or Home Depot says is ok. There people are NOT electricians.
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Old 09-11-2018, 10:30 AM   #31
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I am still trying to figure out why the OP would have a 50 amp 110 volt circuit at home. Yes they make them, however I have never seen them outside of a commercial setting.

FWIW the OP has not been back since they made their first post.

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Old 09-12-2018, 02:24 PM   #32
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We've been trolled by an electrical question.
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Old 09-12-2018, 02:53 PM   #33
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Maybe the guy checked the voltage on a 120/240 4 wire receptacle and only measured from the hot to neutral or ground which would show 120 volts, or checked a 240 volt receptacle to ground and thinks that's 120 volts. I cant remember ever seeing a 50amp 120 volt receptacle in use. Also I would like to ask the guy who says some electricians don't know the difference in RV wiring, I guess I'm one. Please enlighten me as to the difference.
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Old 09-15-2018, 04:33 PM   #34
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Correction:
"There is one point of confusion in the linked article, but it does not matter in this case. Both the 50 amp and 30 amp house power receptacles have 230 volts and 120 volts wired into them as do all most all modern homes in the US."
The only confusion is my own. The article is correct as is. RV 30 amp plugs are 120 volt 30 amp outlets with one ground pin and 2 blades.
Old home clothes dryer outlets were 3 blade 230 volt outlets.
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Old 09-15-2018, 04:59 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by persistent View Post
Correction:
"There is one point of confusion in the linked article, but it does not matter in this case. Both the 50 amp and 30 amp house power receptacles have 230 volts and 120 volts wired into them as do all most all modern homes in the US."
The only confusion is my own. The article is correct as is. RV 30 amp plugs are 120 volt 30 amp outlets with one ground pin and 2 blades.
Old home clothes dryer outlets were 3 blade 230 volt outlets.
Paul Bristol
study this... It explains it more in detail considering the 3600 watts service verses 6000 watts. This system supplies TWO 120 volt circuits so you can get a max of 12000 watts...



This is why when I plug into a 30 amp service instead of a 50 amp service, some of my 120 volt items do not operate. Fortunately, the 30 amp service (first) is powering the AC. Like I mentioned in the beginning, if he wants to get more amps delivered to the RV, he may be able to change the breaker and the wiring supplying that power (in the house) to a QO150 (or eq) to supply 50 amps but if you watch the video, it still only supplies 3600 watts.
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Old 09-15-2018, 05:14 PM   #36
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Correction

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Originally Posted by persistent View Post
A standard 3 blade 30 amp outlet has two hot blades and one neutral blade. The two hot blades are each 120 volt to neutral and 230 volt to each other. These have been used for electric dryer outlets for many years. Many regions and the US now require 4 blade outlets for dryer outlets. The fourth blade is a ground.
Larrypride is correct. I was mistaken. The three blade plug I described is not an RV 30 amp 120 volt plug. It is an old style 230 volt 30 amp home clothes dryer plug.
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Old 09-15-2018, 05:16 PM   #37
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correction

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PS: The neutral blade connects to ground at the home service entrance.
This is technically correct, but applies to the old style home clothes dryer plug not a 30 amp 120 volt RV connector.
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Old 09-15-2018, 05:20 PM   #38
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correction

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Originally Posted by persistent View Post
The 30 amp outlet in the RV service box linked in a earlier message on this thread is indeed 30 amp 120 volt outlet. It is not the outlet I have on my Kodiak Cub or had on my previous TT. It is also not the outlet I have seen on numerous State and Federal campground power posts.
I was completely mistaken about the configuration of my Kodiak Cub and State and Federal campground electrical hookups.
They are all 30 amp 120 volt two blade and one ground pin connectors.
Paul Bristol
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Old 09-15-2018, 06:02 PM   #39
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The answer is yes.

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Originally Posted by poultryfarm View Post
Hello,
My 2006 Dutchmen is 30 Amps 110 volt. Can I plug in 50 Amp 110 v at home breaker?
I try to run AC, water heater same time. Thank you for your help
Back to poultryfarm's original question.
Yes you can buy an adapter that plugs into a 50 amp 230 volt socket and allows you to plug in a 30 amp 120 volt RV plug into the adapter. The adapter is frequently called a "dog bone" connector.
The arrangement will not fry your 12 volt converter, or RV service entrance. The dog bone adapter will sort out the voltage difference and the RV main breaker will prevent over current in the RV.
Plugging a 30 amp 25 foot RV shore power cord to the dog bone leaves an unlikely risk of over current in the cord. That could conceivably cause a fire in the cord without tripping any breakers. However, the configuration is used frequently. Thousand of those dog bones are sold across the country every year.
You can mitigate the unlikely risk of a cord fire using different methods.
1) Have an electrician install a new 30 amp 120 volt outlet with a 30 amp breaker at the 50 amp outlet.
2) Have an electrician replace the 50 amp breaker in the home circuit breaker box with a 30 amp breaker. Use the same 50 amp capable wire and install a 30 amp socket in place of the 50 amp socket.
3) Buy a 50 amp to 30 amp adapter with a 30 amp breaker or fuse in it.
4) Buy a 50 amp power cord. Use appropriate adapters on the far end of the 50 amp cord to connect to the RV 30 amp connecter. A good combination would cutting off the 50 amp socket at the far end and adding an RV 30 amp connector. In this case one hot wire in the 50 amp cord would be tied off with no connection leaving one 120 volt wire, one neutral wire and one ground wire connected to the 30 amp 120 volt RV socket.
5) Similar to #4 above, replace the 30 amp 120 volt RV socket on the side of your travel trailer with a 50 amp connector. Use the intact 50 amp shore power cord. The new 50 amp connector would leave one hot blade disconnected. One hot and one neutral would connect to your RV 30 amp main breaker. The neutral and the ground would connect to the common buss and the RV frame the same as the current 30 amp plug does.

I apologize for my previous posts which were confused with an old style 30 amp 230 volt home clothes dryer plug and socket.

Paul Bristol
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Old 09-15-2018, 07:10 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by persistent View Post
back to poultryfarm's original question.
Yes you can buy an adapter that plugs into a 50 amp 230 volt socket and allows you to plug in a 30 amp 120 volt rv plug into the adapter. The adapter is frequently called a "dog bone" connector.
The arrangement will not fry your 12 volt converter, or rv service entrance. The dog bone adapter will sort out the voltage difference and the rv main breaker will prevent over current in the rv.
Plugging a 30 amp 25 foot rv shore power cord to the dog bone leaves an unlikely risk of over current in the cord. That could conceivably cause a fire in the cord without tripping any breakers. However, the configuration is used frequently. Thousand of those dog bones are sold across the country every year.
You can mitigate the unlikely risk of a cord fire using different methods.
1) have an electrician install a new 30 amp 120 volt outlet with a 30 amp breaker at the 50 amp outlet.
2) have an electrician replace the 50 amp breaker in the home circuit breaker box with a 30 amp breaker. Use the same 50 amp capable wire and install a 30 amp socket in place of the 50 amp socket.
3) buy a 50 amp to 30 amp adapter with a 30 amp breaker or fuse in it.
4) buy a 50 amp power cord. Use appropriate adapters on the far end of the 50 amp cord to connect to the rv 30 amp connecter. A good combination would cutting off the 50 amp socket at the far end and adding an rv 30 amp connector. In this case one hot wire in the 50 amp cord would be tied off with no connection leaving one 120 volt wire, one neutral wire and one ground wire connected to the 30 amp 120 volt rv socket.
5) similar to #4 above, replace the 30 amp 120 volt rv socket on the side of your travel trailer with a 50 amp connector. Use the intact 50 amp shore power cord. The new 50 amp connector would leave one hot blade disconnected. One hot and one neutral would connect to your rv 30 amp main breaker. The neutral and the ground would connect to the common buss and the rv frame the same as the current 30 amp plug does.

I apologize for my previous posts which were confused with an old style 30 amp 230 volt home clothes dryer plug and socket.

Paul bristol
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