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Old 04-09-2015, 10:30 AM   #11
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Went out this past weekend.

The water pump is located in the rear of the trailer under the cabinets between the water heater and the outside kitchen. It is accessible from the bottom drawer and by removing the panel in the cabinet under the one bed that is over the outside kitchen.

I still haven't located the the slide-out computer controllers. I'm thinking they are located under the belly of the trailer but am still looking.

Discovered several problem that were easily fixed:


1. The shower hose connector between the Hot/Cold faucets was cracked and leaking; presumably due to water in the line during the winter (the dealer performed the winterization). I replaced it myself.

2. Leak in roof above master bedroom. I discovered during rain storm water running down the wall from the ceiling to the floor. Looked at roof in that corner and discovered that there was a small hole where the metal portion of the front of the trailer meets the rubber roof. The caulking they applied over the brace apparently didn't ooze enough. Since I applied caulking into that hole, I haven't seen any more rain water inside the trailer.

3. My 125 lbs son sleeps on the convertible table in the rear of the trailer. When he sat down hard on the table-top when it was in the down position, the brace supporting the table-top came loose from the seat support. I discovered it was connected to the seat with 3 wood screws and only a few dabs of cheap glue (I was able to rub the glue off with just my thumb). I used Gorilla Glue and 6 wood screws to secure the brace in place. Also went to all the other braces in the trailer and did the same.


Overall we are still getting used to new trailer. This is our second trailer as our first, a 2002 Layton Scout 310 was getting small for our growing family.
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2011 Chevy Suburban 2500 4x4
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Old 04-09-2015, 10:34 AM   #12
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I forgot to mention, I measured the rails based on the manufacturers recommendation (Lippert) and they were within the 1/8" recommendation as posted.

When we went to retract the slide this past weekend, I barely had to push from the outside. I'm beginning to think that it has "fixed" itself with the use.

We shall see.
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Old 04-14-2015, 04:54 PM   #13
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After inspecting the rails alignment per manufacturer, we are still experiencing problems retracting the living-room slide. Maybe it is just snug and needs to be used, but I am not going to wait too long. We are using it every weekend for the next month so if it is still a problem, then we are going to take it in for repair.

I am still trying to find the computer controller box for the slideouts. Am beginning to think they are tucked away under the chassis somewhere. And since the belly is enclosed, I'm not sure I want to venture into that.
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Old 08-12-2015, 10:13 AM   #14
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Update: After lubricating the slide-outs and ensuring that the trailer is level, we have not had any other problem with them.

I did have to re-caulk the shower panels as it was leaking in several places. I figure with the towing and movement of the trailer, the original caulking (if there was any to begin with) came loose. Either way, after re-caulking the panels, all is well again.
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Old 09-01-2015, 03:03 AM   #15
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Matt,


If you take the cover/vent off below the pantry (4 screws) you will find all three controllers for the slides along with the controls/relays for the remote for the slides as well. There is also a fuse (2 or 3 amp I believe) for the LED awning lights... I had to do quite a bit of searching when my lights quit due to a pinched wire under the awning hardware. We have had our 2014 300BHSL and love it. We have had very little issues with it. We do find the rear bunk warmer as well. I will be looking for the diverter modification soon Hope this helps. If you have any other questions, just ask!


Matthew


2009 F150 4X4 5.4L
2014 Kodiak 300BHSL
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Old 09-01-2015, 10:24 AM   #16
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Mr. Matthew,
Thanks. I will have to look there when I go on our next trip. I take it from your post that you have a remote for your slides; I didn't get that "option" with mine and am now wondering how hard it would be and what additional hardware I would need to put that in?
While you are installing the diverter in the rear, you may also want to check your heater ducting to make sure that it is not the cheap stuff; I've heard others say that they replaced them with insulated ducting. Also have some aluminum tape when you do it to help seal the connections...

Thanks!
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