Kodiak 279RBSL Underbelly and Heat Mats - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 03-11-2019, 04:07 AM   #1
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Kodiak 279RBSL Underbelly and Heat Mats

Hi everyone,

I’m new to the forum and have a question about our 2017 Kodiak Ultimate 279RBSL. When we purchased the TT, I noticed that it had the “all seasons” package and thought “this is going to be great for when we go skiing” ...pretty much means zilch to me now since I just returned from a ski trip and our water tank froze during the weekend . I just ordered 3 heat mats for the fresh, gray, and black tanks and am going to install them myself.

My questions: Is the underbelly plastic hard to remove? Does anyone know specifically where all the tanks are located? Do I need to remove the whole underbelly plastic? Is the underside insulated? Has anybody ever attempted this install yet?

Thanks so much!
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Old 03-11-2019, 02:49 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiing_BMX-TT View Post
Hi everyone,

I’m new to the forum and have a question about our 2017 Kodiak Ultimate 279RBSL. When we purchased the TT, I noticed that it had the “all seasons” package and thought “this is going to be great for when we go skiing” ...pretty much means zilch to me now since I just returned from a ski trip and our water tank froze during the weekend . I just ordered 3 heat mats for the fresh, gray, and black tanks and am going to install them myself.

My questions: Is the underbelly plastic hard to remove? Does anyone know specifically where all the tanks are located? Do I need to remove the whole underbelly plastic? Is the underside insulated? Has anybody ever attempted this install yet?

Thanks so much!
Let me know how you make out, I need to do the same! Are you installing the 12 volt or the 110?
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Old 03-11-2019, 04:19 PM   #3
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@Frantafl: I will keep you updated. I went with the 12V heating mats and 3 button switch bank. I ordered them on Amazon. Here are the links:

https://www.amazon.com/Facon-Holding...HG828J450BE33Y

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 03-12-2019, 12:49 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Skiing_BMX-TT View Post
@Frantafl: I will keep you updated. I went with the 12V heating mats and 3 button switch bank. I ordered them on Amazon. Here are the links:

https://www.amazon.com/Facon-Holding...HG828J450BE33Y

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the info. I'm considering the 110 volt product since the 12v stuff will make the inverter noise too much in my little RV.
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Old 03-13-2019, 12:17 AM   #5
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I have just finished removing and reinstalling the "membrane" on the back of our 2018 243BHSL. A bit smaller than yours. I removed about 6-8 feet. The back of mine is fastened with bolts. Going forward there are rivets. I replaced these with self tapping bolts. There was no insulation. I did spot one duct that was probably part of our "under floor heating". The fresh water tank sits pretty much above the wheels than comes the gray water and then the black tank. There was a couple of feet of empty space after that. Fairly easy job, especially if you have help. I did it myself.



For what it is worth we did camp last year in temperatures down to 16 degrees F. No issues. but day time temperature did go above freezing. And while traveling you are at the mercy of the weather. For constant below freezing, Your probably doing the best thing.


Good luck!
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Old 03-13-2019, 07:50 PM   #6
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Kodiak Cub “Heated and Enclosed”

According to the Keystone support desk, “Heated and Enclosed” means the owner must winterize the plumbing when the temperature drops below 32 degrees F. Keystone also supports the Kodiak line of TT’s.
See my post on how I enclosed and heated my Kodiak Cub underbelly
http://www.dutchmenowners.org/forums/f26/kodiak-cub-modifications-7378.html
The chloroplast cover on the belly does not seal the space. Air moves through cracks above and below the frame. Wind while driving or standing easily moves through. The 2 inch duct connecting the furnace to the belly moves only a baby’s breath of hot air. You found that out.
After modification, my Cub plumbing can be heated using the propane furnace, and either 12 or 115 volt tank heaters. I have both tested and used the propane furnace in freezing weather. It works fine except for a problem I will discuss below. I have not tested the tank heaters in freezing weather. They may not keep the water pipes under the floor thawed.
The problem is the tank drains. When I camped in freezing weather, I always had above freezing day time temperatures to dump the tanks. They are still exposed, and do freeze. I have used a hair dryer to drain the fresh tank and the gray tank. I am considering the design of different methods of heating the drains.
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Old 03-13-2019, 08:13 PM   #7
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get one of these, half price! hair dryers, pretty unprofessional.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D26960...ag=googhydr-20
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Old 03-13-2019, 09:54 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by franktafl View Post
get one of these, half price! hair dryers, pretty unprofessional.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D26960...ag=googhydr-20
Looks good!
If you still can't get the drains open you can use the Dewalt to melt the end of the pipe off.
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Old 03-14-2019, 06:31 PM   #9
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You can take down a corner by removing rivets then use self-tapping screws as mentioned. Take a picture of what you find. Then decide how you want to go.

If you decide to make a cut below each tank, make sure the cut is to the rear of the area you want exposed. IE, make your "U" shaped hole with the opening to the rear of the unit.This gives you a non-cut piece getting the airflow while driving. Then tape the seam with Eternabond tape. Put on a clean surface and pressed down solid...it won't come off....ever! The Gorilla mentioned below works well too!

Plus, I've been using Gorilla black tape (thick stuff) to seal around the forward edges and around areas on my underbelly where the chloroplast cover isn't quite snug enough to my liking. Any hole I can find. Again, it sticks very nicely and hasn't come off yet after 2 months. No meeces or other critters have visited yet.....yet is the operative word.
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