Fix AC 15K for closing Ceiling Vents - Dutchmen Owners
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:21 PM   #1
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Fix AC 15K for closing Ceiling Vents

I have the 242RESL with the 15K AC and in Texas when the temps are about 100 deg., it can be difficult to cool down. It's not a Kodiak issue, since the laws changed and the type of Freon all vendors must use, it's just not as cool efficient as the freon we used back in the '90s.

With the 2013 242RESL, I can choose to open the dump that's immediately below the main A/C which is located centrally in the living area. When you do so, air blasts down, but unfortunately not much makes it back thru the vents to the bedroom. Now if you close the main dump, air flows thru the vents, but all vents are directional, but not close-able. When we're sleeping at night, we wanted to be able to close off the vents in the front and force all the vent air back to the bedroom.

The solution is a cheap and easy fix. Venting Products / AC Vents - DW Inc.. The style "Aireport" #5840 RV AC Ceiling Vent is a direct replacement for the ones in the Kodiak. The ceiling holes don't need to be modified. Just unscrew the 4 screws, drop the original and insert these. The vent has a screw action to open and close. If you want to close it completely, you'll see little plastic nubs on the underside of the screw cover, just snip those off and it'll then close all the way.

You can see the items (even the nubs are visible). The cost a whopping $2.75 each.

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Old 12-16-2013, 11:03 PM   #2
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Nice idea. Think I'll order some from my dealer for my new 291resl.
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Old 12-17-2013, 06:21 AM   #3
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Hi hbillsmith,

My Kodiak 300BHSL already comes with those screw vents in the bunk house, bedroom, bathroom and kitchen area. It makes no difference. The issue is the air is cold, but their seems to be lack of pressure just like everyone has been saying.

So not sure why your 242RESL did not come with those already....
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Old 12-17-2013, 06:22 AM   #4
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My Kodiak 300BHSL already came with those vents. My issue is there is not enough air flow. The air is cold, just no pressure blowing out of these vents.
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:26 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sithc View Post
My Kodiak 300BHSL already came with those vents. My issue is there is not enough air flow. The air is cold, just no pressure blowing out of these vents.
Look up the air conditioner thread. A lot of us have already been through this.
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:32 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by sithc View Post
Hi hbillsmith,

My Kodiak 300BHSL already comes with those screw vents in the bunk house, bedroom, bathroom and kitchen area. It makes no difference. The issue is the air is cold, but their seems to be lack of pressure just like everyone has been saying.

So not sure why your 242RESL did not come with those already....
The lack of pressure is fixable. Dutchmen is oblivious to it..........so they say!
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Old 12-17-2013, 04:31 PM   #7
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2013 242RESL Mfg. May 2012

The 2013 242RESL mfg. early in the year, had the directional A/C vents that couldn't be closed off. Also, even though they changed them later in the year, the ones I switched too had little nubs that kept the vent from closing 100%. I used a simple pair of wire cutters and snipped off the nubs such that a vent can now close 100%. Of course, I then have to make sure that I don't close all of them off. Typically, during the day, the bedroom is shut off and at night the living area is shutoff.
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Old 12-17-2013, 05:25 PM   #8
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I would actually trade you your directional vents for these close-able ones that are installed in my TH. PM me if interested.
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Old 12-17-2013, 05:37 PM   #9
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Sinecure, my unit is in storage for the winter and I probably won't be able to get the old vents until probably March. That said, they're not very good, even as directionals. I'd suggest you go the site I mentioned for buying the non-directionals and there they sell directional ones also. I think they're still only about $3 a piece.
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Old 03-16-2014, 10:40 PM   #10
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I fixed my Kodiak 300BHSL... Easy fix. I will post pics and how to in a few..
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Old 03-17-2014, 04:10 AM   #11
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Thanks Clay 507. Looking forward to your post.
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:33 PM   #12
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Voltage has a problem with lousy taping jobs done in the ductwork at the A/C itself causing cold air into the ceiling rather than the ducts. Perhaps a problem with other brands?
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Old 03-17-2014, 06:41 PM   #13
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We'll in my camper facing forward looking up on the left hand side the duct runs full length of the camper but the cents are located in the back of the trailer for the back bedroom and living room. The other 15 foot going forward does nothing. Wasted airspace. Soon as I closed it off air flow doubled to the rear. Here's how you can check your camper you will need a iPhone and a flashlight. Remove all vent covers start from the back of the camper and turn your iPhone on camera use it as a to see down the duct. Use the light you can see where the duct goes. My speaker in the hallway lit up that's how I found out it was wasted space no vent needed. What a joke. With your iPhone locate all open spaces air can leak out and seal them with expanding foam.
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Old 03-17-2014, 07:49 PM   #14
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That is the very first thing I did in my 2014 240BHSL.

The other thing I did was to remove the inside part of the skylight in the bathroom and close the end of the duct... It was shooting cold air in between the 2 parts of the skylight. Thats the bad part of having the ducts molded in the styrofoam of the roof.

I have put a piece of styrofoam in the end of the duct.

That gave more air flow in the bedroom.

Hope this helps.
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:11 PM   #15
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See picture 300bhsl

See picture below.
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:29 PM   #16
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Thanks Cly507. I have the exact same 300BHSL trailer.
I understand your diagram, but how did you block up the ducts? And how did you access the area that you blocked up? Any details would greatly be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:54 PM   #17
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Home Depot expandable foam in a can. I am making a video will post when finished.
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Old 03-19-2014, 03:34 AM   #18
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Clay 507 SOLID POST.
I noticed the same thing in my 276bhsl at the end of last season. In your pic it shows that the channel of the entry side of the roof starts at the a.c. unit and only goes forward to the master.My question is do you think that it could go all the way to the rear as well? In other words two channels parallel that go from front to rear. And the a.c. unit is located on one of the two.
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Old 03-25-2014, 02:24 PM   #19
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You inspired me. Over the weekend I totally reworked my a.c. and the ducking. I pulled off all the factory silver tape inside the cold air returned and the supply and 're sealed with 1/4 foam panel and a higher grade tape. Was also to use expansion foam for the larger holes that the wires run through in that area. The ducting was revamped by using similar method as clay. Results of all this is a much more efficient a.c. and the air pressure is at better than before.
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Old 07-01-2015, 05:41 PM   #20
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Good picture of the duct work, I was changing filter in my 2015 300bhsl and it is a mess in there ,there is a plate in between intake and exhaust and it is moving, the foam tape looks like a balloon,, just ordered a small 90 degree drill and will be screwing that plate down and retaping with good tape, I took pictures with my cell phone, shoddy stapling and wood word, worse taping job.. when I bought my home I was told the workers say " well cant see that mess from my house" so they don't care, I figure that is how Dutchman workers are.. don't care..
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